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Pups'n Studs - Breeding ethics (upd 5/2009)
Breeding Cabaroo Border Collies
Every litter I breed could contain my next future star. Unfortunately I cannot keep them all and have to find suitable homes for my little treasures. *sigh* ;)
A BC deserves and needs a meaningful life, and so I try to place them with people who like to train their dogs and possibly participate in competitions. I am a bit picky about where I let my pups go, and I try my best to match the right puppy with the right person. I do feel proud when I see them doing well in their chosen activities but I'd not like to see the dog becoming only means to achieve something. One should always remember that these are living creatures, not machines. And when they leave here, they are just (promising) PUPPIES!
Experience has shown me that a bitch should have her first litter around 3 years of age. Giving birth for the first time at over 4 yrs of age might lead to difficulties and complications. Having had a litter, the bitch can have a couple of years' wait for the next, and in that time you are able to get her titled, if you wish to do so. Naturally, exceptions can occur..
My perfect BC
I love an enthusiastic dog who has 'the want' to do whatever you wish, to the point of seeming obsessed or fanatic. :) The thing that separates a good dog from a great one is that the great one has 'fire within', showing from their eyes (manic? - yes!!) But to be totally honest, a handler can do a lot to get that fire going!
Having said that, I also want the dog to have an off-switch. Just as important as the on-switch! Also a good temperament is essential.
I like beautiful things around me.. So I want my BC's to be nice to look at. Some might not agree what I think is beautiful and truly, 'the beauty is in the eye of the beholder'. My first BC was of british type and his image will be in my mind forever as the standard.
The old saying 'brains before beauty', is fine, but I don't like the way people twist it to 'only an ugly dog can be a good working dog', because THAT is not true. There's a reason why the BC looks like it does. Those dogs with good angulation and balance were the ones who could go on herding sheep for hours without tiring themselves, and who had enough speed to go after a flighty sheep. Dog with poor structure cannot cope with a heavy workload. It can be seen in Agility dogs who do a lot of agility. They break.
Some old border collies that I like.
It's no secret that I like the deep mahogany red (bb), but it's more through fate than planning that so many Cabaroos are red. Certain rules matter with colours, like no merle to merle combinations. Working ability is the same whatever the colour. I've bred four RED and one BLUE MERLE ObChampion so there's your proof! ;)
Temperament and health when breeding
There can be BCs that take their work extremely seriously but I like some "humour" in a dog, bit of sparkle in the eye. Usually makes the dog nicer to live with, too. I've been lucky so far and most of mine have a 'sense of humour'. :)
They must have good temperament with people and other dogs alike. Be friendly, open, easy-going and adapt to new situations. Go where you go (this is helped with good socialisation).
A healthy mind in a healthy body, so naturally the dog must be healthy in every way before being bred from. Besides the tests (HD, ED, eyes, DNA-testing) the dog must show general good health and stamina. The dogs I breed from do not have any illnesses that need regular medication.
Moderate is a very good word, whether you talk about coat lenght, bone substance or amount of eye dog has (in herding). It's all about a balance between different things, and I try to walk 'the middle road', not to go to the extremes or specialize too much. Someone might say I try too little (average BC), and another might say I try too much (a true all-rounder). When the time comes to go to work, he's ready, keen and willing, and takes it easy when not needed.
I would not use a dog for breeding, that is aggressive, unreliable or nervous. All dogs must be tought manners, so sometimes one has to be able to look beyond certain things. Likewise, learned behavior is sometimes other than the genetic make-up of the animal.
The lines, the working instinct
I aim for correctly built mainly British/ISDS-line BCs with a personality plus. The herding instinct is the motivation and motor in this breed.
I like to have some ISDS working dogs in the pedigree as without the instinct these would not be BC's any more.
When searching for a pup/stud I always look at 5-6 generation pedigree. Also remember to look at the lines, not the titles the dog may have won, for his lines will not change with the titles. If you have a Herding Champion from 5 generations of show bred dogs, it will not make the dog to have "working LINES". It only proves the dog does have the herding instinct still in him. Likewise, if you have a Show Champion with ISDS working dogs as his parents or grandparents it will not make the dog to have "show lines" behind him. But it tells you he has a correct conformation. These days it is more and more difficult to obtain the title of ShChampion with a British/ISDS type of dog, which I find rather sad.
Remember, the pedigree tells you a lot if you know how to read it. If you don't know how to study a pedigree - LEARN!
It gives me a thrill to read the illustrious names like Wiston Cap, Bosworth Coon or such like, to know something about the heritage they carry, which begun such a long time ago. Without the shepherds and their flocks on the rough hills of Britain we would not have this wonderful breed. There is no future without a past.
Even with the lines, you must also look at the dog itself. What is she like, who would be the best partner... time-consuming, difficult yet fascinating task to do... Sometimes you succeed, sometimes fail.
I hope to breed easily-motivated dogs, cabable of tackling whatever task their owner wishes them to do, with stamina and drive to do it — hence my motto 'Action-loving dogs for action-loving people'.
New puppy owners
The expectations of prospective puppy buyers are high in Finland and sometimes I wish they would SEE the dogs and not just their titles.. It's easier to achieve champion status in Finland than it is in UK for example, but one must remember that it is up to the dogs' handler. So many potential champions will not become one because their handlers do not wish to compete. Still those dogs may be good specimen of the breed and I have used dogs in my breeding that have lacked the results but have had a good pedigree, nice temperament & disposition, and I have felt they've been a correct mate to the bride in question. So, sometimes, give credit to the breeder for being able to choose the right mate...
New puppy owners will get a leaflet about how to take care of the pup plus some information about training. They will get info about the breed, pup's parents and a 6-generation pedigree. Help and advice will be given 24/7 for the rest of pups' life, all you have to do is ASK. If you live near me, you will also get a puppy training course for free.
Some people choose not to let me know about training/living difficulties, and then I cannot help you. Remember that I have lot of experience of the type of dog I breed, so I should be able to help you and if you want to use some other method we can discuss about that. I'm always open for other ideas. :)
All puppies will be eyetested and veterinary checked before going to new homes. They will also be ID-marked with a microchip.
How to bring up a pup
There's been lot of OCD in shoulders in the breed in Finland in recent years. Genetics have some to do with it but also the growth time. My advice is to leave the pup to develop for the first year of its life. If you wish to do agility with an 8-year old dog, then let him grow up naturally, without agility, for the first year. They are developing on their joints and bones up till 1 year of age, a bit more if the dog is going to be big. Don't break the dog with jumps and sharp twists & turns done in high speed. Sorry to say, but many do it far too much. :/ Instead, take the dog in the forest with height differences, don't walk on the paths but let him run free up and down and therefore develop the muscles and joints in a healthy way. It's excellent exercise for a growing dog.
Keep the pup lean, but not thin. The energy from food should go, not only for living & exercise, but for growing also.
Take the pup everywhere with you! Airport, shopping centre, sports happening, ob/ag competitions... everywhere, and immediately when you get him. At 7 to ~11 weeks of age the pup is still so small that you can put him in a bag and carry him around. It's a safe place for the pup to be, and see and hear things. That way you get a brave dog who is okey with different things around him.
I give a 20 page leaflet to my new pup owners, it contains a bit of history about the BC, and general advice.
For more info, send me e-mail.
Different lines produce different types of BC's, choose your own by doing your homework and taking time in choosing the parents of your future pup. Each pup will inherit some of the looks and the ways of its parents. And will hopefully be your best pal for the next 12 or so years.
